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23/05/2013 14:05:52

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Messages - abrogard

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1
Complementary Medicine / Re: Warts
« on: 25/07/2012 07:57:17 »

 'cutting into the wart is a bad idea... blood and pus very infectious..',  ' salicylic acid.... scrape off until it bleeds...'

 I would like to fix my son's warts, he's 6 years old. This thread was looking promising. Could it perhaps resurrect itself and get more input until we start to get repeated posts about one method actually working?

 Or is it nowadays a proven fact that it has a virus origin and only the anti-virus activities of the body in question will fix it?

 In which case what is the best known scientific way to stimulate the body's anti-virus activities?


2
General Science / How To Make a Vinegar Paste ?
« on: 02/08/2011 12:10:20 »
I think I'm going to have to get some phosphoric acid, or a commercial product that uses it.
I've done a lot of googling. Vinegar would work well if it could be soaked. It will then get down to the individual molecules of iron oxide, which is the kind of mechanism I was thinking about - get every last bit that way, don't you?
 But it can't be soaked.
 Phosphoric will be quicker, I guess, is the point.  Seems the right way to go depends very much on your particular rust problem, including the nature of the metal you're dealing with. No one size suits all.

 Thanks for your interest everyone.

 :)

 I did read one thing that interested me a lot: molasses and water. A molasses and water mix was said to be a great rust remover. The writer claimed the secret was that it produced its own phosphoric acid.  I'd like that. Appeals to my sense of humour, fixing my car with molasses....

3
General Science / How To Make a Vinegar Paste ?
« on: 01/08/2011 22:05:24 »
 I agree with you - the rust 'likely to bleed through' - but that's the whole point of this approach. To remove the rust with a 'rust converter' such as vinegar or phosphoric acid, I think it is, that they use in the commercial mixes.

 Because I'm thinking that these fluids or pastes will squeeze into all the cracks of the welds and joints and remove every last speck of rust - stuff I might miss with a grinder. And then it will be all gone. And can't come back. Can't 'bleed through'.

 Are you technically savvy with the physics/chemistry here and can tell me that it just won't work?

 If that's so I will abandon the approach now and forever, I mean for future jobs too.

 :)

Edit p.s.   Sorry, didn't see the earlier posts.  I think maybe the toothbrush and steel wool thing is a physical removal thing, mainly. I see phosphoric already got a mention. In fact I've used it. Did a whole 6 x 4 rusty trailer with it. The rust is coming through again. That was a VERY rusty trailer, true, but it still maybe indicates that rust cannot be 'Stopped' in this way.

That's what I'm hoping to find out about in this thread.

Washing off cornflour raises the question of water on bare metal. Especially into little cracks and such that you get in (admittedly bad) welds such as mine. I'd much rather a preparation that didn't need washing off. If one must wash off then how likely is rust to have already gotten a hold even though perhaps unseeable at that stage, I wonder?


4
General Science / How To Make a Vinegar Paste ?
« on: 01/08/2011 03:03:29 »

 I read the thread about Vinegar removing rust.

 I need to remove some rust from a car body panel where I've welded in some new stuff but left it out in the rain and the welds themselves and part of the new steel all got rusty (even though I sprayed it with undercoat).

 Vinegar sounds great. But I think you must soak it in vinegar for some time, right? I can't just rub with vinegar and expect it to chemically alter the rust, can I?

 Well, I can't soak the car in vinegar.

 the thread mentioned ketchup as a good alternative... I think that's out, too.

 So maybe I need to make a paste of the vinegar, somehow, and smear that on.

 So how would I make a paste for this purpose? i.e. a paste that doesn't neutralise the vinegar?

 And that old thread mentioned that the effect of these weak acids is also to coat the metal with a coating that makes further rusting a little harder to do.

 So I wonder about that and washing? I suppose to apply modern auto  paints or undercoats onto such a surface after the vinegar treatment one would have to wash all the residue vinegar off?  Definitely have to wash the treated (black sludge?) rust off, rather than a good wipe, I guess?

It would be so much better if the treated rust, wiped down to the thinnest layer, could be painted over, wouldn't it, rather than introducing water into the mix.

But all of that gets into the chemistry of today's paints, I guess...  too esoteric for this forum or not?

regards,

ab   :)

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