Naked Science Forum
Non Life Sciences => Technology => Topic started by: neilep on 29/07/2010 19:20:38
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Greetings,
As a sheepy I of course do washing ( though my perosnal hygeine is very questionable )and this is the cold tap that leads to our washing machine.
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Do ewe notice that it's upside down ?.....that is how it is fixed and I can't move it/twist it through 180 degrees.
I have a problem though...we just purchased a new washing machine...so I had to undo this tap to disconnect the pipe from out old washing machine and then reconnect it to the new....Now though, the tap leaks all the time when it's tuned on !
Do ewe know how to cure this ?..do I need a plumber ? or is this a relatively easy DIY job that the wife I can do ?
whajafink and thanks for your help.
hugs and shmishes
neil
I'l Do Your Washing
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Greetings,
As a sheepy I of course do washing ( though my perosnal hygeine is very questionable )and this is the cold tap that leads to our washing machine.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Do ewe notice that it's upside down ?.....that is how it is fixed and I can't move it/twist it through 180 degrees.
I have a problem though...we just purchased a new washing machine...so I had to undo this tap to disconnect the pipe from out old washing machine and then reconnect it to the new....Now though, the tap leaks all the time when it's tuned on !
Do ewe know how to cure this ?..do I need a plumber ? or is this a relatively easy DIY job that the wife I can do ?
whajafink and thanks for your help.
hugs and shmishes
neil
I'l Do Your Washing
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Murphey's law applies to all plumbing jobs! Every one of them. Doesn't matter what you do, it will leak.
Although if the wife does the job, you don't notice it as much. It's either her or the plumber... not sure which is cheaper. Probably the plumber!
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Hey Neilep, it has been a while....I am interested to see that sheeeople also have these problems. There is a reason why dripping water was and probably is still used as a method of torture.....I am sure it came about because some nasty types just could not get the orings on their taps to seal and thought they would share the frustration with a few unsuspecting prisoners :). I must say that the tap looks like it has been around the block a few times and could use some TLC. In my experience, it is best just to fix the blooming thing yourself because if you call the plumber, he will charge you enough to make the wife complain, if you let the wife do it (unless she has some skills at that) it will probably still leak and you will still get it in the neck for not fixing it the first time. Save the time and money, get a seal kit for a few bucks and overhal it yourself. It is a piece of cake provided you turn the main water supply off before removing the bonnet of the valve :)
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All kidding aside.
I have used what I call a forever valve ball valve
From the looks of the calcification some errosion inside the gasketed area may prompt Murphy's laws 10 fold. Do it your self do not cut corners. Think of it as if you are the brave disarming a bomb. [;D]
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Just need to shut the water off in the house/appartment before the change out or plan on an indoor pool
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Thank ewe so much daveman,doppler1 (good to see ewe again) and tommya300.
I really appreciate your suggestions and advice...Ok..I will give this a go myself....I think it's best to don some scuba gear but I'll let ewe know how it goes !!...thanks *nervous sheepy*
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Ok if that was not good enough this has all the features man needs to have.
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Ok if that was not good enough this has all the features man needs to have.
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Hee hee !!
Of course as a sheepy I of course don't imbibe alcohol...I'm a tea totalling sheepy so of we can replace those with green tea then I'm a happy bunny sheepy !
One thing I've just noticed with the tap is that it leaks not from the tap end but from the spindly thing and only when the tap is turned on....BUT when the tap is turned fully on..ie: wound open as far as it can go then it stops leaking.......the same applies when it's fully closed !
I am 'tap-fused' !
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Neilep it is a hop, tap and a jump repair.
I have an easier time with pictures, your brass unit here works the same way.
If the neoprene seals are drying up and they lose their elasticity to seal.
We compensate by tightening shut more and more. Same thing when we open the faucet, everyone does it from time to time, we ring it out as far as it can go. After a number of times this is done, something has to fail.
Usually the rubber flakes away on that last crank. If one rubber is beginning to show a sign of failure so will the rest of them in that unit, also it is advised they will need to be changed too..
A
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Closed faucet seals any leaking so far.
B
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Partially open valve shows it is leaking.
C
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Fully Open Valve also Seals any leak so far. What is happening here is the Valve Stem Retainer is pressing against the
Packing forcing a seal. Sort of like putting that screw top back on the Jar of Marmalade, Jam tight.
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Neilep it is a hop, tap and a jump repair.
I have an easier time with pictures, your brass unit here works the same way.
If the neoprene seals are drying up and they lose their elasticity to seal.
We compensate by tightening shut more and more. Same thing when we open the faucet, everyone does it from time to time, we ring it out as far as it can go. After a number of times this is done, something has to fail.
Usually the rubber flakes away on that last crank. If one rubber is beginning to show a sign of failure so will the rest of them in that unit, also it is advised they will need to be changed too..
A
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Closed faucet seals any leaking so far.
B
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Partially open valve shows it is leaking.
C
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Fully Open Valve also Seals any leak so far. What is happening here is the Valve Stem Retainer is pressing against the
Packing forcing a seal. Sort of like putting that screw top back on the Jar of Marmalade, Jam tight.
FANTASTIC INFORMATION TOMMYA300
Don't suppose ewe happen to live near Barnet, North London ? *hint hint*
Seriusly...I am very humbled by your detailed response and the information therein....KWALITY !!
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You will notice that the part that is dripping has a 6 sided section ( corroded white in your pic, you must have hard water in your area) and merely needs to be tightened up SLIGHTLY ( not turn the compression gland 5 turns so that the spindle breaks ) to provide a better seal. You tighten it up after loosening it slightly, and turn the tap to make sure it is not too tight to turn. Easiest is to go and buy a new Conex tap, and replace the whole unit, all you need is a 24mm spanner ( or adjustable spanner that opens to 24mm) to undo the 2 compression fittings, slip in the new unit and you are done. Takes 20 minutes, including turning off the water and mopping up the spilt water from the pipes.
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You will notice that the part that is dripping has a 6 sided section ( corroded white in your pic, you must have hard water in your area) and merely needs to be tightened up SLIGHTLY ( not turn the compression gland 5 turns so that the spindle breaks ) to provide a better seal. You tighten it up after loosening it slightly, and turn the tap to make sure it is not too tight to turn. Easiest is to go and buy a new Conex tap, and replace the whole unit, all you need is a 24mm spanner ( or adjustable spanner that opens to 24mm) to undo the 2 compression fittings, slip in the new unit and you are done. Takes 20 minutes, including turning off the water and mopping up the spilt water from the pipes.
Yes the best way is to make it all new.
http://www.thenakedscientists.com/forum/index.php?topic=33199.msg317797#msg317797
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Neilep Sorry I would of asked if I can help by fixing it for you. I live totoo far away in the USA
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Neil,
Try tightening the packing nut a bit and see if that helps. If not, you just need to replace the packing (see the picky Tommy sent you.)
Shut off the water and remove the entire tap by unscrewing it from the body. It will separate at that red coloured washer between the two parts.
Then remove the packing nut. That looks like a fairly old tap, so the packing might actually be a piece of string. What you can do is pick out the old packing with a pointy thing, then coat some new string (the soft cottony stuff - not sisal) with petroleum jelly (Vaseline), then stuff some of that into the packing space. You might even be able to get some PTFE packing string that you can stuff in instead.
Then replace the packing nut and screw if down to that it compresses and forms a seal on the shaft of the tap. If you can't get the nut to go in, you have put in a bit too much packing, so just pull a bit out and cut it off.
Make sure the surface of the shaft is not worn and pitted where the packing interfaces with it. If it is, it's likely to keep weeping and you'll probably have to replace the entire tap.
BTW, before you screw the tap back into the body, you should relplace the main sealing washer.
This 'ere link has some useful hints http://www.leakingtaps.co.uk/
You ought to be able to rotate the tap so it's easier to turn it if you slacken off the two compression couplings that attach it to the pipes. Remember to tighten them again when you have it at the desired angle!
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You will notice that the part that is dripping has a 6 sided section ( corroded white in your pic, you must have hard water in your area) and merely needs to be tightened up SLIGHTLY ( not turn the compression gland 5 turns so that the spindle breaks ) to provide a better seal. You tighten it up after loosening it slightly, and turn the tap to make sure it is not too tight to turn. Easiest is to go and buy a new Conex tap, and replace the whole unit, all you need is a 24mm spanner ( or adjustable spanner that opens to 24mm) to undo the 2 compression fittings, slip in the new unit and you are done. Takes 20 minutes, including turning off the water and mopping up the spilt water from the pipes.
THANK EWE SeanB...again...all very helpful information and I am humbled by your kind response and the great instructions. Ta
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Neilep Sorry I would of asked if I can help by fixing it for you. I live totoo far away in the USA
Far ?..all ewe need do is jump on a plane !!..sheesh !!..I'll even make ewe a cup of tea...now THAT has to be worth the trip alone !
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Neil,
Try tightening the packing nut a bit and see if that helps. If not, you just need to replace the packing (see the picky Tommy sent you.)
Shut off the water and remove the entire tap by unscrewing it from the body. It will separate at that red coloured washer between the two parts.
Then remove the packing nut. That looks like a fairly old tap, so the packing might actually be a piece of string. What you can do is pick out the old packing with a pointy thing, then coat some new string (the soft cottony stuff - not sisal) with petroleum jelly (Vaseline), then stuff some of that into the packing space. You might even be able to get some PTFE packing string that you can stuff in instead.
Then replace the packing nut and screw if down to that it compresses and forms a seal on the shaft of the tap. If you can't get the nut to go in, you have put in a bit too much packing, so just pull a bit out and cut it off.
Make sure the surface of the shaft is not worn and pitted where the packing interfaces with it. If it is, it's likely to keep weeping and you'll probably have to replace the entire tap.
BTW, before you screw the tap back into the body, you should relplace the main sealing washer.
This 'ere link has some useful hints http://www.leakingtaps.co.uk/
You ought to be able to rotate the tap so it's easier to turn it if you slacken off the two compression couplings that attach it to the pipes. Remember to tighten them again when you have it at the desired angle!
THANK EWE Geezer !!....ewe know..I really am so grateful to everyone here for the fantastic responses and your step by step guide (and very useful link) Geezer is extremely helpful .
I think after I have done this I will start my new career as a plumber and will be bale to insatll whole plumbing systems ......THANK YOU !!