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You can't keep warm without combustion and wood is, in theory, sustainable if more trees get planted. It would be better if the trees were allowed to rot so the invertebrates could benefit, and ulimately the birds, but most gardens don't have that amount of room so you have to do what's practical. I'm a bit surprised that you're able to burn this year's wood as it normally takes a year to season. I get 4 m3 of logs from a landscape gardener each winter and they last us for open fires in one room till the spring - you can't beat it.
i dont think it is good for the environment! at least i would like to believe that!
My design would be to cool the exhaust to room temperature, and use forced air input for drafting. It would require a sealed firebox. I'm not sure about the creosote problem.
Quote from: CliffordK on 01/06/2012 17:06:51My design would be to cool the exhaust to room temperature, and use forced air input for drafting. It would require a sealed firebox. I'm not sure about the creosote problem.Some gas fires with horizontal flues have air drawn out by an electric-fan, so it is workable. And having a fan running would save having to ensure heat was left in the flue gases for draw. Wood creosotes are not going to do an electric fan any good but a vacuum is preferable to pushing cold air in through the fire, especially the need to load more wood.
Is a wood stove environmentally friendly?
I think a good way to go is to use a boiler of some sort and transfer the heat into a large mass of something (water for example) that can be used for space heating when needed.That allows you to optimize the combustion process to minimize air pollution, and probably extract more thermal energy. The downside is that you need a large amount of something to store the heat, and heat exchangers etc., so the whole thing gets to be capital intensive.
You forgot to add a pump to transfer your hot water around to where it's needed; unless you already have a handy central heating system to tie it in with
I think the heat exchanger is the right idea though, only an air-to-air one. You design your stove to have enough draw for the worst case - ie. down draft on the chimney, damp cold inlet air, etc. Then you give the inlet a progressively more convoluted route into the hearth via a staged heat exchanger around the flue pipe so that inlet air is always as hot as possible without taking so much velocity out of the exhaust that the draw collapses.Only have to add a (admittedly more complex) heat exchanger with no need for e-fans, pumps, water tank or integration with other systems.
I suppose you could avoid that by having several small furnaces, but that might be a bit of a pain!
I was under the impression a radiative stove (painted with stove black, say) wants to be as hot as the iron will stand (discounting any safety concerns), so hot water (at 99degC say!) is too cool to help with continued good combustion temperatures.
If you happened to live in a valley then it would not be too healthy to you, your friends and family.