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Greetings,As a sheepy I of course do washing ( though my perosnal hygeine is very questionable )and this is the cold tap that leads to our washing machine.[attachment=12542] Do ewe notice that it's upside down ?.....that is how it is fixed and I can't move it/twist it through 180 degrees.I have a problem though...we just purchased a new washing machine...so I had to undo this tap to disconnect the pipe from out old washing machine and then reconnect it to the new....Now though, the tap leaks all the time when it's tuned on !Do ewe know how to cure this ?..do I need a plumber ? or is this a relatively easy DIY job that the wife I can do ?whajafink and thanks for your help.hugs and shmishesneilI'l Do Your Washingxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Ok if that was not good enough this has all the features man needs to have.[attachment=12551]
Neilep it is a hop, tap and a jump repair. I have an easier time with pictures, your brass unit here works the same way.If the neoprene seals are drying up and they lose their elasticity to seal.We compensate by tightening shut more and more. Same thing when we open the faucet, everyone does it from time to time, we ring it out as far as it can go. After a number of times this is done, something has to fail.Usually the rubber flakes away on that last crank. If one rubber is beginning to show a sign of failure so will the rest of them in that unit, also it is advised they will need to be changed too.. A[attachment=12557] Closed faucet seals any leaking so far. B[attachment=12563] Partially open valve shows it is leaking.C[attachment=12559] Fully Open Valve also Seals any leak so far. What is happening here is the Valve Stem Retainer is pressing against the Packing forcing a seal. Sort of like putting that screw top back on the Jar of Marmalade, Jam tight.
You will notice that the part that is dripping has a 6 sided section ( corroded white in your pic, you must have hard water in your area) and merely needs to be tightened up SLIGHTLY ( not turn the compression gland 5 turns so that the spindle breaks ) to provide a better seal. You tighten it up after loosening it slightly, and turn the tap to make sure it is not too tight to turn. Easiest is to go and buy a new Conex tap, and replace the whole unit, all you need is a 24mm spanner ( or adjustable spanner that opens to 24mm) to undo the 2 compression fittings, slip in the new unit and you are done. Takes 20 minutes, including turning off the water and mopping up the spilt water from the pipes.
Neilep Sorry I would of asked if I can help by fixing it for you. I live totoo far away in the USA
Neil,Try tightening the packing nut a bit and see if that helps. If not, you just need to replace the packing (see the picky Tommy sent you.)Shut off the water and remove the entire tap by unscrewing it from the body. It will separate at that red coloured washer between the two parts.Then remove the packing nut. That looks like a fairly old tap, so the packing might actually be a piece of string. What you can do is pick out the old packing with a pointy thing, then coat some new string (the soft cottony stuff - not sisal) with petroleum jelly (Vaseline), then stuff some of that into the packing space. You might even be able to get some PTFE packing string that you can stuff in instead.Then replace the packing nut and screw if down to that it compresses and forms a seal on the shaft of the tap. If you can't get the nut to go in, you have put in a bit too much packing, so just pull a bit out and cut it off.Make sure the surface of the shaft is not worn and pitted where the packing interfaces with it. If it is, it's likely to keep weeping and you'll probably have to replace the entire tap.BTW, before you screw the tap back into the body, you should relplace the main sealing washer.This 'ere link has some useful hints http://www.leakingtaps.co.uk/You ought to be able to rotate the tap so it's easier to turn it if you slacken off the two compression couplings that attach it to the pipes. Remember to tighten them again when you have it at the desired angle!