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Geology, Palaeontology & Archaeology / Re: Why do waves always travel towards the shore?
« on: 22/12/2016 16:07:35 »
Good question:
Waves are only a symptom of energy applied to whichever medium you are observing, they are not the energy itself. Water waves can be caused by several different energy sources, most commonly atmospheric pressure causing wind. Because water is heavy and dense, some of the water is constantly trying to replace that part which the wind is moving in the same direction as the wind, so the back flow causes waves in the opposite direction.
It is like standing behind a speaker; You can still hear the music, but at a different pitch and at a lower volume.
Waves are only a symptom of energy applied to whichever medium you are observing, they are not the energy itself. Water waves can be caused by several different energy sources, most commonly atmospheric pressure causing wind. Because water is heavy and dense, some of the water is constantly trying to replace that part which the wind is moving in the same direction as the wind, so the back flow causes waves in the opposite direction.
It is like standing behind a speaker; You can still hear the music, but at a different pitch and at a lower volume.