0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
I’ve written this spreadsheet to calculate the specifications for the electrical power supplies
The other thing that bothers me is the idea of replacing cable anchorages with insulators. You need at least to de-stress each cable in turn, which means finding some way of supporting the cable's weight or removing it and recabling from scratch.
And then you need an insulator that doesn't creep,
and matches the cable thermal expansion.
Probably feasible, but is it economic? How many hours a year is the bridge closed for de-icing?
The trick on airplanes is to fit an inflatable rubber boot on the leading edge of the wing. When you have acquired a few millimeters of ice, you inflate the boot and the stuff cracks off. If you do it too soon the ice just accumulates on the inflated surface and the boot pumps up and down in a void beneath the ice - with potentially fatal consequences, so it's a bit of a critical art. But you could encase each cable with a boot and do the same. No problem if you get a void - just close the bridge anyway!
Quote from: Peter Dow on 23/04/2021 13:15:52I’ve written this spreadsheet to calculate the specifications for the electrical power suppliesGlad to know you have found something to keep yourself occupied during lockdown.I re-glazed my greenhouse.
I'm also intrigued by the notion that it matters much which wires you heat.Metals conduct heat quite well.If you heat the ones in the middle, the heat will diffuse to the outside.If you heat the ones round the perimeter, the heat will diffuse into the core of the cable.Fundamentally, the only place that (most of) the cable can lose heat is from the surface, so it hardly matters which bits you heat.
I didn't start programming the spreadsheet until 9 days ago
If this country is being held back it is not by the competence of our computer scientists.
And then you need an insulator that doesn't creep, and matches the cable thermal expansion.
bridge.png (376.19 kB . 627x354 - viewed 4558 times)What happens here?As far as I can tell the set of strands that make up the cable are all covered by the same cladding.
And if that's the case, then it doesn't matter which particular strand(s) you choose to heat.
The overall effect will be the temperature rise of the outside of the cladding will be related to the total power dissipation in the cable. (and the relation will be very close to "proportional to").
So, in that case, what does your spreadsheet tell us?
This is a screenshot – click to view a high-resolution image.
What model does it give for whatever that white coating is?
It's been a while, and you still haven't answered this properly.Quote from: Bored chemist on 18/02/2020 19:43:52I'm also intrigued by the notion that it matters much which wires you heat.Metals conduct heat quite well.If you heat the ones in the middle, the heat will diffuse to the outside.If you heat the ones round the perimeter, the heat will diffuse into the core of the cable.Fundamentally, the only place that (most of) the cable can lose heat is from the surface, so it hardly matters which bits you heat.A bit of plastic won't matter much- it's not as if we are trying to get things "hot", just keep them above freezing.And, if a bit of plastic does matter then the really important one is the overall wrapping of the cable.So, why do you think it matters which of the hundred-and-odd strands we heat?
The heat flow characteristics across the thickness of the HDPE stay pipe can indeed be modelled but the heat transfer is relatively efficient compared to that between the strands across a mostly air gap to the stay pipe.
The biggest thermal resistance is the loss from the cable "as a whole".
The temperature gradient within the pipe is quite small.
In any event, we can make a simplifying assumption.Imagine we just heat the outermost layer of wires. The inner ones will be less hot than the (the inner side of) outer ones, so they will be OK.
If you can't heat the outer ones to a point where the cable sheds ice without damaging the outermost layer of wires,
There are a lot of complicated details to do that in the most effective an unduly complicated way,
Next project: find some way to prevent closures due to high winds!
A simpler idea that doesn't involve dismantling the cables, is to place a heating sheath over the entire cable.
We used to wrap nichrome wire around exposed water pipes - it's called "trace heating".
Tower iceTo prevent the bridge piers or towers (with non-conducting concrete surfaces) from icing up, they could be surface fitted with new electrical heating trace cables which are then appropriately electrically-powered for deicing when necessary.
There are a few ways I know of that they use for deicing planes.Inflatable rubber bits, trace heating and antifreeze sprays.
Trace heating is a low-maintenance industry standard.Using the bridge’s own cable strands to carry the trace current is innovative but equally low maintenance.
Trace heating is used as I’m sure you are aware, on oil pipelines in extremely cold environments, much colder than even the lowest temperatures we have in Scotland.
Or you can use a plastic boot and blow hot air up the tube.
Wither technique has the advantage that you can also heat the surface of concrete and mass steel structures with it, so yoe can keep the entire bridge free from ice, not just the cables.
Another option to consider is heating the hollow towers from within. However, considering the considerable mass and thickness of the towers, their surfaces would have to be kept above freezing temperature all winter long. Heating the towers from within, there simply wouldn’t be time to allow the towers to get freezing cold because there was no icing then suddenly heat them from the inside to deice a sudden incidence of icing.So heating from within bridge towers would use more electricity, though the cost shouldn’t be prohibitive – surplus grid electricity is a common occurrence at times of high wind power generation, so the electricity grid managers should offer a very low price for such electricity (just the grid connection charge) – plus it should be a lot safer upgrade from the point of view of bridge users – far less chance of things falling onto the road during the fitting of the towers’ internal heating elements.Heating the towers may be as simple as a big electric heater on the ground floor, the warm air rising up the insides of the towers, in between the open stairways and scaffolding.
an unduly complicated way,
So, the simple design would work OK as long as someone checked the weather forecast.