Cosmetics linked to cancer

Tattoos, tanning beds, breast implants, and slimming pills go under the microscope...
20 August 2024
Presented by Chris Smith

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A tattoo

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Human pursuit of body perfection and ideal aesthetics means that we’re increasingly resorting to cosmetic interventions to achieve the look we’re after. Some surveys suggest that the breast implant market is growing at 7% per year, and for the tattoo industry it’s 10%. Weight loss injections are helping people shed their dad bods, sun tanning salons provide a healthful bronzing, and we all like to smell nice with a dose of deodorant and a dab of talc. But the evidence is mounting that at least some of these cosmetic and hygiene enhancements might come with a hidden health cost. Many have never been subject to proper rigorous clinical appraisals of all of the chemicals they contain, meaning that as more people embrace them, some concerning trends are beginning to emerge. And that’s what we’re going to look at this week...

In this episode

A tattoo

00:57 - Can tattoos cause cancer?

With more and more people choosing to ink themselves, we find out about the risks...

Can tattoos cause cancer?
Christel Nielsen, Lund University

A new study from researchers in Sweden - which suggests a possible link between tattoo ink and cancer. Here’s Christel Nielsen at Lund University…

Christel - One in two women younger than 40 years old have a tattoo. And yet we know so little about how that affects health. During recent years, there has been some work that has looked into the fate of tattooing in the human body. The tattoo ink is actually moved away from the skin and ends up in the lymph nodes, part of the body's natural immune system. We know that many of the chemicals in the ink are bad actors, yet that sort of linkage between the two hadn't been made. We thought that that would be a logical first step to take: to ask whether having this deposition, this translocation of tattoo ink within your immune system, would that cause cancer given what we know is in the colours?

Chris - Are there adequate records, though, of who's got tattoos and who's having outcomes with cancer? Because that's not something that doctors routinely say to a patient when they come in, 'Oh, how many tattoos have you got?' So how did you actually collect the data?

Christel - Yeah, that's a really good question. I think that is something that's been a limiting factor. What we did is that we used the registered data that we have in Sweden, on the whole population, on everyone who lives here, and a very useful register for research is the Swedish National Cancer Registry. Everyone who receives a cancer diagnosis ends up in that registry. What we could do was retrieve data on everyone who had had a diagnosis of cancer of the immune system during the last 10 years, and then we were able to link that to data from the total population to get individuals who had not had cancer during the same period of time. Then we went out there, using a questionnaire, and asked all these people about their tattoos, their lifestyle, other things you might do to your body, like use of tanning beds, piercings, scarification, smoking. The idea was that, by doing this, we would find out whether there was an overrepresentation of tattoos among those who later developed cancer of their immune system.

Chris - And is there?

Christel - The data suggested that we had a 20% higher risk among those who were tattooed.

Chris - Have you quantified how much body art people have? Because one of the arguments about causation, if something causes something to happen, there should be what we call a dose dependent relationship. If I smoke one cigarette, then that's far less bad than if I smoke 10, let's say. One would anticipate, if I was covered in tattoos, I ought to have a higher risk of getting one of these lymphomas that you've discovered this association with than if I had very few.

Christel - We have that data, but we didn't see that effect. We also expected it to be that way. We have discussed it a lot: what does this data represent? What does this mean? It could be that we asked the wrong question, basically. We distinguished between people who had a tattooed body surface of one hand palm or smaller or larger than that. We thought we would capture a dose effect that way. We don't know what happens in the body. We basically just looked at the first destination in the body where the ink ends up and I would speculate that the lymph nodes can only keep so much ink and there might be some kind of saturation effect that the rest of the ink passes on.

Chris - Could it be that the tattoo is an innocent bystander, but it's a reflection on a certain person's other lifestyle practices. So if they've got a tattoo, they might do something else and it's something else they do as well that's actually linked to the lymphoma, not the tattoo per se.

Christel - That is a very important point. But we collected data on those factors. We sat down and thought through thoroughly what factors may be related to getting lymphoma, and do we think that these factors may also be related to whether you have tattoos or not. If there was a 'yes,' or a 'perhaps yes,' then we made sure that we collected data on that. So, for instance, tattooed individuals are more frequent smokers. We also considered socioeconomic status, education, age of course.

Chris - And when you control for those various factors, do you still see this signal that it appears that there is some kind of association, having a tattoo, with this 20% increase in your overall risk of getting a lymphoma at some point? How does this make you feel about your own tattoo?

Christel - It's not more dangerous today than it was yesterday. There is no reason for people to be alarmed about this, but we have all gotten our tattoos for some reason. They are an important statement for some life event that you go through and I think that might have a psychological value for many people that shouldn't be underestimated. We are constantly exposed to different things in our everyday life and I think it's the sum of those exposures that add up to create your actual risk.

Surgeon operating

07:14 - Breast implant lymphoma link

Textured implants can, in some cases, cause malignancy...

Breast implant lymphoma link
Suzanne Turner, University of Cambridge

We’re going to examine a very rare link now between cosmetic breast surgery and blood cancer. It’s called anaplastic large cell lymphoma or ALCL. It’s a cancer of the immune system which presents around breast implants. It was discovered by the University of Cambridge’s Suzanne Turner and Chris Smith has been speaking to her…

Suzanne - Some implants have a smooth surface and some have a textured surface, and it's the textured implants which have been associated with this form of cancer. Originally, the very first case was reported in the literature in 1997, so quite some years ago now. But nobody really took much notice of this. This was one case report a very long time ago, and in more recent years it's been discovered that there are more cases and, as the evidence is growing and there are more cases being reported, obviously there is more attention being paid to this.

Chris - What is going on then to link that particular kind of breast implant to this particular kind of rare cancer.

Suzanne - So there are lots of theories hanging around about why this very certain type of breast implant might be driving cancer. Traditionally, we always think of cancer arising when cells in our body pick up lots of mutations, and these mutations can be caused by any number of factors from exposure to the sun, to exposure to different chemicals, and that these cells then just grow out of control. But we are now gradually improving our understanding of how cancer develops in that it's not just down to cells having mutations, but also the environment in which those cells sit. One idea around the breast implant is that there's a lot of inflammation as a result of this foreign body being there in the breast and, over many years, this causes a very chronic and ongoing inflammatory response that eventually allows cells, which may have some mutations, to then grow out and become a cancer.

Chris - I thought that these textured breast implants were the ones being championed as the ones to have because they didn't provoke what got known as capsule formation. The people who had those smooth implants to start with ended up with these very hard, rigid, fibrous tissue in the breast. Very uncomfortable, very unsightly for them, and so everyone shifted to these textured variants. Are they now not the one to have then?

Suzanne - So the textured implants were developed not only to prevent what's called capsular contracture, where you get this thickening of the breast and puckering, and another reason why those textured implants were developed, in some cases, implants are used which have a shape to them: they're not spherical, they're not round, they have more of a pear shape. The idea behind the texturising was that then you would get these fibrous adhesions that would prevent that implant from turning because you don't want a pear shape turning sideways and ending up with a wonky appearance, whereas the round implants could stay smooth because it doesn't matter if a round implant rotates, it's going to be round. What we can say is that in the US the majority market share would be the smooth implants, and in Europe it's the textured implants. Although, having said that, a lot of the textured implants have now been, particularly ones that were developed by a manufacturer called Allergan, removed from sale due to this problem with cancer.

Chris - And what fraction of people who have had one of these textured implants may go on to develop the cancer that you've identified?

Suzanne - There was one particular case study in New York, a very eminent surgeon there who had used the Allergan textured implant for all of his patients, and in his study it's as high as one in a hundred women with textured implants.

Chris - And what does that disease do? Does it just stay local in the breast? Does it spread around the body? Does it behave like any other cancer would? How does it tend to present and then progress?

Suzanne - So the relatively good news is that it is easy to treat, and I say easy with a very heavy heart in that of course women still have to undergo invasive surgery: you have to have the implant removed, you have to have the capsule, this fibrous tissue around it, removed. Then there's also, of course, a very difficult decision as to whether or not you would have it replaced, maybe with a smooth implant or you would just have some other form of constructive surgery. For some of these women, they've also had mastectomies due to breast cancer and now have this second cancer due to their breast implants, so it's a very difficult journey. But survival rates are very high. There have been at least 1600 cases globally. That's probably a huge underestimation. There have been 50 deaths to date. So it can become lethal, and that generally happens if it's not picked up early. The signs to look for are a sudden swelling in one breast, very, very rarely it could happen in both. It may or may not be painful. You may have other symptoms that you would see with patients with breast cancer, so you may feel lumps and bumps. You may not have swelling and just have lumps and bumps. You may have discharge from the nipple, you may have rashes on the skin in that area. So any of these sorts of symptoms that you would regularly look for when you're checking yourself for breast cancer apply in this situation too.

Chris - Have you tracked down what the trigger is? You're saying it's chronic inflammation, but that's not happening for no reason. So what is provoking that in the susceptible person?

Suzanne - So there are a number of theories out there. One idea is that there are potentially chemicals on the surface of the implants and that these chemicals themselves are mutagenic, they can harm your DNA. There are lots of studies which are trying to pin down what these chemicals might be including in my own lab. We have had some success now with detecting some chemicals on the surface of brand new implants. The trick is when you find them, they're not necessarily there when the implant has been in place for 10, 20 years.

Chris - We put textured things in different places in the body in different contexts, though, don't we? We, for instance, do surgeries to repair hernias, we put joint replacements in that have textured surfaces to lock them into bones and so on. Do we have therefore a theoretical risk of this sort of process happening elsewhere?

Suzanne - It's entirely possible. There have been isolated cases reported of cancers associated with other medical devices which have been put in the body. I don't want to scare anybody, it's exceptionally rare that we've seen these cases and there's no evidence, no unequivocal evidence, to associate that that's causative of the cancer. But we are seeing this and I think part of the issue is that, in essence, we become guinea pigs ourselves with medical devices in that the regulations, the regulatory agencies, the government authorities, which decide what sort of tests have to be done to prove a device is safe before it goes into a human body, are woefully inadequate.

Make-up

15:25 - Talcum powder as a cause of ovarian cancer

A troubling report that caused Avon to file for bankruptcy...

Talcum powder as a cause of ovarian cancer
Sophia Lowes, Cancer Research UK

The door-to-door beauty brand Avon - which sells a variety of cosmetics, skin care, and other beauty products - recently filed for bankruptcy in an attempt to offload more than 778 million pounds worth of debt, a proportion of which is linked to its liabilities in lawsuits involving purported links between talc-based makeup, and some forms of cancer. The pharmaceutical company Johnson and Johnson have also faced similar claims about one of their baby powder products. But what is talc, and what’s the evidence, if any, that it might be linked to cancer? We put in a call to Sophia Lowes, a senior health information manager at Cancer Research UK…

Sophia - You might have seen in the news, or heard online or from friends, that talcum powder can cause cancer. It's something that has gone around and people have heard about it, but it's a little bit more complicated than it might first appear. When we think about talcum powder, actually what we are talking about in a lot of the research is a mineral called talc. That's a naturally occurring mineral that's used in a lot of industries from making paper, plastic, paint, but also cosmetics. When we say talcum powder, it used to be commonly made with this mineral called talc. But often now that isn't the case, and talcum powder is also baby powder and the main ingredient is corn starch. We're talking about a lot of different things. Also, talc can be found in some cosmetic products like blush or powder and maybe also liquid makeup products and soap, and what we've seen in the research is that when we're looking at talc, specifically, that's the mineral not the cosmetic powder, there is some evidence that it may cause cancer. So it has been designated by a group of experts called the International Agency for Research on Cancer as what's called a probable cause of cancer. That can sound pretty scary, but what it means is that while there is some evidence that in animals or in cell studies that talc the mineral can lead to cancer, there isn't enough evidence in humans to say for sure that there's definitely an effect. We need more research before we can say for sure whether or not talc causes cancer.

Chris - Which cancers has it potentially been linked to?

Sophia - In particular, the research looks at ovarian cancer. Quite a lot of historical use of talcum powder, when it was made with talc, is being used in the genital area and the theory that the exposure in that area might cause inflammation which could, if that's experienced chronically, so on an ongoing basis, it's hypothesised that that could be the way that it increases the risk of ovarian cancer.

Chris - Does that sound biologically plausible, though? Because the anatomy says, well, the ovaries are quite a long way away actually from the outside world and it's quite a long journey to get inside to get to an ovary. You'd think that would be quite remote. There'd be other places that were getting a lot bigger exposure to the talc before it got anywhere near our ovaries. So why do you think that might be the case?

Sophia - I think that's why it's so hard to pin down whether or not that there is an effect and there's a lot of limitations to these studies. For example, sometimes the numbers of people developing ovarian cancer in these studies are quite small and that just means there's a lot of uncertainty around whether or not there is an effect or not.

Chris - Is the fact that you mentioned talcum powder can mean different things to different people and different manufacturers put different things in the product, could it be that actually there's some other ingredient in there which in some context is causing this and that is blurring the picture? Because there's been some allegations that some products contain things like asbestos.

Sophia - It is true that in some places where talc is mined, the mineral is being mined, that it can be found with asbestos alongside it. Asbestos is a known proven cancer risk factor for cancer types such as mesothelioma or lung cancer and where there is talc that could be contaminated with asbestos, that use could increase cancer risk. However, the sale of products containing asbestos is banned in the UK and it's the responsibility of regulators to make sure that any cosmetics products are safety tested before they can be sold on the market in the UK.

Chris - Do we need to rethink how we use various chemicals and the various exposures to things we end up putting into our bodies? There may be many chemicals in those things that have not been properly evaluated, we just assumed they're okay because we've done it in the past.

Sophia - Thinking about these things that we use in incredibly small amounts, whether that's a small amount of makeup on your face or a little bit of baby powder here and there, if there is a small amount of talc in that product and an even smaller potential increased risk which hasn't been proven, when we think about our cancer risk in the big picture, those things like smoking and cutting down on drinking, having a healthy diet, where there are the proven cancer risk factors that we know have a large impact on our risk, those are the far more important things for people to be thinking about when they're looking to make a change to reduce their risk of cancer, rather than thinking about whether or not this product or not has an extremely small amount of talc in it.

UV light strips.

21:12 - UV sunbed skin cancer risk

With UK skin cancer rates at an all time high...

UV sunbed skin cancer risk
Jane Sterling, University of Cambridge

According to Cancer Research UK, skin cancer rates are at an all time high, with around nine in ten cases caused by exposure to too much UV radiation from the sun and sunbeds. In fact, of the 21,000 cases of skin cancer in the UK this year it’s thought that 17,000 of them were preventable. It was with this in mind that people under the age of 18 in the UK were forbidden from using tanning beds in 2011 - but it’s believed that around a quarter of adults in the UK still do. There are also concerns that UV lamps used in nail salons can kill cells and that they could be linked with cancer. So, could our thirst for golden tans and immaculate manicures be putting us at real risk of serious illness? Speaking on the subject is dermatologist, Jane Sterling…

Jane - Every time you go out into the sun, the ultraviolet light affects the cells, the building blocks, of the skin and produces some damage to the DNA, the genetic messenger if you like, in the skin. Our skin usually repairs that damage quite well, but in doing so, you can get sunburn and sometimes that repair doesn't work quite right, nothing's perfect. And over the years, every time you get a little bit of not completely repaired DNA damage, those are kept in the skin and gradually they reach a threshold when a lot of little bits of damage can tip you over into getting skin cancer.

Chris - And which cells does that affect?

Jane - Well that can affect the melanocytes, those pigment producing cells and can also affect the surface epidermal cells. They're called keratinocytes and they can cause a different sort of skin cancer to the melanoma type skin cancer that arises from melanocyte damage.

Chris - And what should someone look out for? What might be the danger signs?

Jane - So melanomas usually appear as an enlarging dark, brownish black spot on the skin. And if something like that starts to appear and grow in a site where there's never been a mole before or where there's been a small mole, then see your doctor as a matter of urgency. And squamous cell cancers usually tip up a bit later in life as a rough raised bump. So they're a little bit more difficult to spot perhaps, but something appearing where there hasn't been anything before should also be looked at.

Chris - And is the mechanism you just described the same regardless of where I get the ultraviolet, whether I'm out there on a sunny day, or on the beach, or I go to a sun tanning parlour?

Jane - It's pretty well exactly the same. The doses, depending on how long you stay out in the sun or on the sun bed may be different, but the mechanism is exactly the same.

Chris - We know that sun exposure is linked to skin cancer and skin ageing, but is there evidence that sun tanning parlours are equivalently linked to skin cancer?

Jane - Yes, there is. People have looked back at people who've developed skin cancers at various points in their life and asked of course, how much sun exposure have you had over life? Have you lived abroad in very sunny places? Have you been a sun worshipper going on lots of sunny Mediterranean holidays, for instance? Or have you used sunbeds? And there are links with all of those to an increased risk of skin cancer. So people who've lived abroad in Africa or Australia, people who've loved to sunbathe and have had two or three Mediterranean holidays a year and people who have been regular users of sunbeds, all of those have a higher risk of getting skin cancer. Let's break that down into a sort of theoretical group of a hundred people aged 50 with skin cancer. A good proportion of those, I'm guessing now, but I would think that a good 50% of those would be able to say, well yes, I have had a lot of sun over my life. So you really want to get only a mild tan. And particularly that applies if you have the sort of genetic makeup that makes you even more prone to skin cancers. So that would be people with fair skin who burn easily. That's people with blonde or red hair, people with lots of freckles, people who have lots of moles and very, very important, and I think lots of parents are aware of this now, is that if you get a lot of sun exposure at a young age, that's even worse than getting it later in life.

Chris - What about other places where we use UV, both therapeutically and cosmetically. For instance, dentists use it. Also nail bars fuse certain nail accoutrements on fixed glues with ultraviolet exposure. So does that mean that there's a theoretical risk in those settings, both to the person who's being zapped with the UV, but also the person who's using the UV professionally to do those services?

Jane - Well, that's a good question and I can only give you a theoretical answer. Hopefully people don't have too many fillings, but people do sometimes go quite regularly to nail bars and quite regularly have that sort of ultraviolet light exposure. The nail bar workers should be protected against that because the nails are put under a little box-like thing that shouldn't allow the ultraviolet radiation to come out directly onto the people, but they need to be careful. But of course the intensity of it is on the nails themselves. I suppose it's perhaps in the last 10 years, I don't know really, that people have started to go to nail bars very regularly. Sometimes once a week or once a month. And this exposure to ultraviolet really wasn't thought about as being a particular risk, but it is now known that the damage that occurs to DNA that we see with going out in the sun can happen with the ultraviolet light used in nail bars.

Chris - If someone listening to this has had a lot of exposure, they may now be worried. And what can they do to minimise the risk of there being a problem?

Jane - I'm going to sound like an old fogey here, but I think that minimising the risk is not to do it. So sunbeds, I can't think of any reason really why people should want to do it as now there are such good creams that can be used to give a brownish appearance to the skin. They're very good. Nails, it's not essential to have gel nails. You can have beautiful nails in other ways, in my opinion. But for both of those, if the desire to have frequent treatments is excessive and unavoidable, then please keep it to a minimum. Is all I can say. I mean, a few episodes a year is probably okay, but regular use is probably not.

weight loss

Weight loss drugs raise thyroid cancer risk
Anne McTiernan, Fred Hutchinson Cancer Center

When it comes to weight loss pills, the new kids on the block have been heralded as a silver bullet when it comes to tackling obesity-related illnesses. But are there also drugs contained within them that should give us cause for concern? Anne McTiernan is an epidemiologist and obesity researcher at the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Center in Seattle. She studies ways to prevent new or recurrent cancer through lifestyle factors such as weight control, and began by explaining how drugs like Ozempic work…

Anne - They've been very well tested for people with diabetes as a secondary medication for those patients. And they've also now been tested for weight loss and they've been shown to produce significant amounts of weight loss if they can tolerate them. Also reduces the risk of several diseases like heart disease. And these have been tested in clinical trials. Those are the gold standards of research, when you're looking at the effects of a medication.

Chris - There are a host of diseases, cancers specifically, that are actually linked to obesity, things like breast cancer. So presumably one can expect that if you use these agents and you shed weight, in fact you are reducing your risk of those cancers, which are linked to obesity.

Anne - There are about 13 cancers that are increased in risk in people with high levels of body weight. The problem is we don't know if people lose weight, if that will reverse that relationship. The gold standard for testing would be clinical trials, but these clinical trials would take many, many years and many people to show an effect.

Chris - Nevertheless, there have been some claims of an increase in certain types of cancers in people who are using these agents. That's true, isn't it?

Anne - Yes. And there was what we call a systematic review and meta-analysis of the clinical trials that have been done in these medications. And there is a suggestion of increased risk of thyroid cancer. There wasn't any evidence of increased death from cancer, but there was evidence of increased thyroid cancer. So this is something for patients to know who are taking these medicines for some reason, that it's a good idea to keep getting thyroid checks.

Chris - When epidemiologists are thinking about possible links between one thing causing another, the thing that they're drawing that connection between, it has to be biologically plausible. So have doctors and scientists come up with a way to link taking these drugs with this outcome of thyroid cancer?

Anne - To my knowledge, there has been some amount of work in that area. For this reason some doctors will say people that have a particular genetic risk for thyroid cancer that it might not be a good medication for them. But reducing weight, we have some evidence from observational studies that surgical treatment of obesity can reduce cancer risk, some evidence from dietary weight loss, but we don't yet have evidence for these new types of weight loss medication.

Chris - Is it not a concern though, that these agents are effectively available to people who want to take them and people can access them relatively easily? So we, we may have a link to these agents causing a particular form of cancer and people nevertheless can access them and use them

Anne - In the United States they are extremely expensive. So they're not available to the vast majority of people unless they have diabetes and they have very good insurance. And when we're talking about potential risk of thyroid cancer, it's an extremely small risk. So yes, patients need to know about recent benefits of any medication, but for most people their risk of thyroid cancer would be extremely small. But the benefit of reducing weight, especially if somebody has diabetes, is going to be significant.

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